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SCENTS
Make Scent Work for You

Do commercial deer attractants really work? Without a doubt, they do. Deer lures aren’t magic, but if used right it can sometimes seem like they are.

To begin, you must understand what you’re up against. You’ve probably heard statements similar to “a whitetail lives by its nose .” It’s a fact—their sense of smell is the only sense that they trust completely. The part of the brain that measures and computes smells (called the olfactory region of the brain), in a whitetail, is said to be approximately one thousand times larger that ours. There are also numerous other physical facts that accelerate the whitetail’s ability to substantially outperform our sense of smell. There’s no question, they trust their nose—so if you can learn how to deceive it, scent can be one of the most important tools in your arsenal.

USE THE RIGHT SCENT AT THE RIGHT TIME

There are three basic categories for lures; sexual attractants or deer smells, food lures and curiosity scents. For food lures, or curiosity scents other than plain urine, timing typically isn’t as crucial.

  • When using natural deer smells or sexual attractants including urine, musks, or gland-type lures, time of year can play a crucial role as to what scents will be effective and when. You may see a positive reaction to an estrus lure throughout the season. However, it’s probably best to use something different opening weekend of bow season.

    A good rule to go by is “use the smells when they are natural to be there.” You can fudge with that rule a bit when it comes to estrus urine. Sometimes, nothing can work better than smelling like the first doe to come into heat, or later, the aroma of the last doe yet to be bred.
     
  • When we say “food lure” we’re not talking about baiting. They would be smells such as essence of apple, acorn scent, etc. Smells from things deer like to eat, but not actual food.
     
  • Curiosity lures are smells that are pleasing to a whitetail’s nose. They will usually come to investigate these smells in an inquisitive way. They can be plant derivatives, food extracts or possibly synthetic smells.

PAY HEED TO “SCENT TRANSFER” AND FOLLOW DETAILS

You may have made the scent trail technically correct, but when you hung the drag on the branch, you touched it with your bare sweaty hand. Your mock scrape may have been perfect except for the fact you stepped in it with the same leather boots you wore inside for breakfast that morning. You must make your set-up seem as natural as possible. This is the area where most mistakes are made. Scent Killer®, elbow length rubber gloves, and a very clean pair of rubber boots are probably going to be your three most important tools when using scent. You must keep “scent-transfer” to an absolute minimum. If the great smell of the lure is there, but a “danger” scent is there too, you’ve goofed. Their instinct for survival out weighs all else.

This starts with a stringent system of scent elimination. (See the section on Scent Elimination, pgs. 70, 71 for more on this.) Having no danger smells or foreign odors around your scent set-up will boost your odds significantly.

DIFFERENT APPLICATION METHODS

Possibly as important as using the right scent at the right time, is knowing how to get the smell to the whitetail’s nose. We have drags, boot pads, scent drippers, wicks and other scent dispensers. Think about the scenario that you’re trying to sell to the deer, and then which application would be best.

Scent trails are one of the most popular ways of applying scent. Boot pads work great; however, a preferred method of laying a trail is to use a Pro-Drag®. This device absorbs a lot of scent, but the best thing about it is it comes affixed to a string that you can attach to a stick. This enables you to drag the trail off of the exact path that your feet are taking. By dragging the trail off to one side you are able to leave the cleanest, most pristine trail possible. Obviously, in thick brush or timber you can’t drag off to the side; but wherever possible, it’s best.

Another plus to this type of drag is it’s much easier to control, for instance, through wet areas, around obstacles, over fences and through tall grass or weeds.

A dripper is another tool that is used a lot, especially when creating mock scrapes. However, the Ultimate Scrape Dripper® is a great tool for dispensing lure at sites other than mock scrape locations. This temperature-activated unit dispenses scent during daylight hours. It can help condition bucks into showing up during legal shooting light and spending more time in your area. The other nice thing about the dripper is that one ounce of scent will last about five days. This unit freshens your set-up each day, priming the location for you.

An easy method to effectively lure in deer is simply hang scent-soaked wicks or scent infused Trophy Leafs™ out to both sides of your stand location as you face downwind. Set them up at your maximum confident shooting distance.

The reason we say “maximum distance” is because you are trying to lure in deer from downwind. The closer it is to you, the better the chance of a deer getting downwind of your human scent. You want the lure to pull the buck in before he gets directly downwind of you.

USE COMMON SENSE

Take cover scent as an example. You can’t go into an OAK WOODS reeking of CEDAR COVER and expect to fool an animal with a sense of smell far superior to yours. Think! Our “brain” is an area where we’re one up on a whitetail. Don’t be in a hurry when creating your scent setup. Think it through. Keep it as natural as possible. Keep foreign smell out of the picture, and results will follow. No, scent doesn’t work all the time. But it’s definitely a tool you want to use sometimes.
 


 



 
 
 
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